lunedì 5 novembre 2012

My experience of the Ladakh 2008 expedition - article for the high school magazine


Ladakh 2008. – Alessandra Cestaro


Everyone who experienced this unique, eye-opening and unforgettable expedition will agree in saying that Ladakh is another world to ours. It is impossible to describe what this trip enriched us with through the use of words alone. Anyhow, I will do the best I can to share thirty ISM’s students’ experiences with other members of our school community.
Every year the ISM organizes an expedition to an ‘unusual’ country, somewhere in the world you would not usually visit with your parents. This year, Ladakh (Northern Indian Region) was re-proposed after its success two years ago. Many wished to attend the expedition, but only the first twenty-six managed to become protagonists of this amazing experience, accompanied by the courageous triplet of teachers: Mrs. Allmann, Mrs. Barton and a tribute to Mr.Hambo (who is now long-gone but always in our hearts).
Delhi was special to us. We were thrown into Delhi’s chaotic reality, so different and at the same time so similar to our own, at the very beginning and at the very end of our 3-week Indian experience. Delhi’s airport welcomed us after 15 hours travelling. We immediately noticed the gaps in the airport’s roof as well as too many mosquitoes sneaking through these and cramming around light. That was when every one of us thirty grabbed the repellent and covered himself all over with it. What a fuss we made right from the start! However, this first “traumatizing experience” was the beginning of an amazing experience. We grabbed our luggage and entered cosmopolitan Delhi searching for our bus.
We were welcomed by our guides who gave each of us an orange flower-necklace and how did every one of us look good with them on! We took a very brief tour of the city’s central area with the bus and it was enough to understand that Delhi had something magic about it as well as some other characteristics scaring us. We saw dozens and dozens of people sleeping on the street, at bus stops, at the entrance of public gardens, trying to fight the night as best as they could. We drove beside cows and a couple of elephants which were common parts of the every-day life there. We saw the Indian Gate and the railway station diffracted by the day’s first rays of light – infinite shades of colour mingling with each other, lighting up every hidden corner of the city.
4.00 am local time: Delhi was already awake and this Indian dawn was sharing all of the city’s secrets with our  sixty European eyes.
We reached the station to catch the train and it looked nothing like Milano Centrale: men sweating to carry tons of luggage, the smell of curry and spices filling our nostrils, but most shocking of all: the number of people on the platforms – too many! As I first reached the station I really thought I was in the middle of a civil protest or manifestation, it was incredible to see so many people simply walking down the street. Workers sleeping on their trucks for the last five minutes before starting a new working day.

We were so excited we couldn’t wait any longer for our journey to start.

Soon enough we left India’s capital city with a 7-hour-train-journey (-20° C on the train thanks to the ‘moderate’ air conditioning) and headed to Amritsar. This sacred city was followed by visits to the cities of Dharamsala, Manali and Leh with two rounds of 5000-metres-height-trekking, in the Himalayas’ heart, in between. We found ourselves sneaking into a completely different culture, full of mysticism, mistery, fascinating scenes and beliefs so essentially different to those of our society.
The Indian sky covered itself with magic as this culture continuously unfolded itself to us, sharing more and more of its unique secrets. We did feel a bit out of place and invasive at times: especially when we were sneaking into underground candle-light monasteries in Manali to see monks writing or orating religious texts in Indi. We also felt invasive when crawling silently into Buddhist monasteries with our unsatisfiable cameras (Franchi’s and Bianchi’s especially) at 5.30 in the morning after having taken a wash in a river near Tsomoriri.
Other times we were scared by enormous white-haired and red-eyed rabbits or gigantic yaks and cows which walked around villages and cities uncaringly. We experienced fear the first night in camp when we thought we would have died of hypothermia during the night - but that same night we fought the cold and the darkness thanks to Hambo’s physics lessons in front our self-made fireplace and our singing all together on the rocks. Nobody will ever forget cramming thirty people in one tent to play cards and squeeze all together to fight the cold air creeping in our bones.
All together we managed to overcome fear and we became confident we could make it through four days, without bathing nor having a shower  - although someone thought she’d take a wash by falling into the river (activity which Elena clearly found entertaining!). Our team spirit allowed us to challenge ourselves further and discover the Indian culture and way of life more and more in depth as time went by: we almost even gave up on being disgusted by chicken tandoori (which only Achille and Ricky would eat sickening amounts of) and chicken curry.
Treks and alterned monasteries visits allowed us to remain astonished by such a difference in culture from ours. I remember all of us being astonished by the poverty, the population density, the streets so dirty, but at the same time amazed by the charm brought by the simplicity of people’s lives mixed to the colours of the dawns and six-pm-sunsets high up in the Himalayas, near Stok Kangrila. These amazing colours painting the massive mountains were our reward (together with the tea and biscuits at the camps) for our 5-hour-treks under an extremely strong sun to reach the different camping locations guided by the Sherpas (of whom we remember Topgas being the best.)  The trekking was extremely tiring as Chicco (Mattia) would surely be able to confirm (Chicco fainted after a long trek. We soon found out this happened due to his lack of enthusiasm towards the boiled egg, baked potato, mango juice and Indian-style-panino making up his packed-lunch.)
Amazement in front of such religious devotion and in front of the breath-taking beauty of the Buddha’s gigantic gold-tinged statues in the monasteries and the unique experiences of camping in the Himalayas (including the sky full of stars, no one will never ever forget) were frame to our discovery of a magic world: a place, a culture to which we would all jealously want to belong to (without giving up pizza and pasta for curry however!).
We would never classify curry as being better than pizza, but as milanese teens and fashion-experts, we can surely say that Indian clothes are stylish! It was not only women who became obsessed with shopping: Achille, Morten, Giaxy, Archie and Bisi were also running frenetically about city centres from shop to shop enriching themselves with new-bought traditional items. We ran around from street to street, each road full with unrolling bazaars selling everything of anything (: typical incense, medicines, natural herb-based local products, gadgets, books, carpets, shoes, jewellery and postcards). We moved back and forth from the city centre and the hotel with the tuc-tucs: a sort of three-wheeled vehicle that substitutes our traditional less-amusing taxi.
            Our shopping sessions were everlasting. Only one thing was able to stop us, or rather two things: Mr Hambleton’s requests for company at McDonald’s and the heat. Humidity and heat were killing us. I remember myself seriously melting on those Indian pathways! Curiosity was too much, so I went to look back for the humidity degree in New Delhi on July 29th and found out it was in fact 89%, 41°C. Thank us well now you know we were around buying souvenirs for you all in those climatic conditions!
Then came our last day in Delhi. The most curious of us left the hotel early in the morning to visit the Red Fort and in the afternoon Humayun’s tomb. Our last night in Delhi, we all dressed up with our new purchases: everyone looked more Indian than the local people, I swear! And as a group we went to celebrate Cri’s birthday at an Indian restaurant, where the food for once was have to say, delicious!
Looking back to the different steps of our wonderful experience, it is inevitable to admit that it was the best journey of my whole life! However, we are all totally aware that India has so much more to offer -  an entire life wouldn’t be enough to accomplish the challenges offered by its mountains, it wouldn’t be enough to see all the beautiful landscapes (or better – moonscapes!) Ladakh offers. India’s beauty lies in its cities, in its people and in their lifestyles, in its history, within its mountains and behind every hidden corner, which is home to something magic. 

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